Archive for the ‘exterior’ category

Stains on the Roof From an Old TV Antenna

March 26th, 2010

We have two “stains” on our roof from where we had our TV antenna. The antenna was removed about a year ago. Is there any way to remove these stains?

Answer:

A TV antenna can cause two types of “stains.” Both types of stains will not damage a typical asphalt shingle roof, and don’t need to be removed. They may be ugly, but it’s not a serious maintenance issue.

A rusty colored, black stain is from rusting metal on the antenna or the fasteners. This type of stain will lighten with time as the weather and sun bleaches out the color. You could try a rust removal chemical like Whink Rust and Iron Stain Remover, but I suggest waiting for the stain to disappear.

The other type of “stain” may be a lack of fungus growing below the metal of the antenna. The zinc coating on the metal becomes an oxide with rainwater, and as it runs down the roof, it stops algae growth. If the stain is a light color, the rest of the roof has algae. The algae can be removed with Jomax or a similar product.

I don’t suggest a homeowner should attempt to clean a roof – it’s just too dangerous. A dry roof is dangerous enough. Adding cleaning solutions, water, and chemicals can make a roof slippery and even more dangerous. Leave the cleaning to professionals.

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Posted in cleaning, exterior, roofing, stain removal

Mildew on Gutters, Siding

March 1st, 2010

I have mildew growing on the gutters and vinyl siding on the side of the house that doesn’t get much sun. I noticed on your website that you suggested the use of Jomax, bleach and water. Is this recommended for gutters?

Answer:

Mildew or mold will always grow on exterior surfaces that don’t see much sun – at least in our Wisconsin climate. I would definitely wash with a Jomax solution, bleach and water. Follow the label instructions. Often you can just spray the solution on the stains with a garden sprayer and then rinse them off. This is an inexpensive cleaning solution that “activates” the laundry bleach.

I’m not sure how the Jomax chemical works, but I know that it works great on vinyl, aluminum siding, and aluminum gutters. It also works on any hard surface with mold or mildew. I found that it does not harm plant materials, but I would wet them down before and rinse them after you use Jomax.

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Posted in exterior, moisture, mold, siding

Patio Door Sticks in Winter

January 7th, 2010

Question:

My patio door is harder to close when it gets cold. I think it needs to be lubricated on the bottom. What kind of lubricant should i use?

Fran

Answer:

A patio sliding door often sticks in the winter because of changes in temperature and humidity that causes wood to move or expand. The frame, door, and home structural framing move. This movement also makes any lack of lubrication or dirt compound the problem.

You should clean the lower track with a vacuum, then wipe it down with a damp cloth. Follow the dampened-cloth with a silicon lubricant on the raised lip of the track. The silicone will lubricate the metal and limit dirt accumulation.

To properly lubricate the rollers, you will need to remove the door. You need to remove the top, inner stop that is normally screwed in place. Tip the top of the door in, then inspect, clean, and lube the top and bottom rollers. This is a two-person job, so have a helper.

You should also observe the operation of the door in the opening. If it’s rubbing on the track, then raise the door with the roller adjustment. If it’s rubbing on the top, lower the door. You might be able to solve your problem with a simple adjustment.

Tom

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Posted in doors, exterior, seasonal

Asphalt Shingles – Premature Failure

December 23rd, 2009

Question:

My CertainTeed 30-year shingles are 9 years old. They are brittle and curling up at the corners. Do I have a recourse?

-Robert

Answer:

Yes, there has been a problem with a certain type of CertainTeed brand shingles regarding premature failure. You should contact the original installer and/or CertainTeed for the terms and conditions. They provide some type of credit depending on the specific conditions.

-Tom

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Posted in exterior, roofing

How to Tell the Difference Between Latex and Oil-Based Paint

November 30th, 2009

Question:

This summer I will be painting the old home I just bought. I would like to match the type of exterior paint. How do I tell if the paint is oil based or latex?

Answer:

Wet a rag with denatured alcohol and rub the paint surface. If paint comes off in the rag or the paints gets tacky, it is latex paint. If the surface remains untouched, it is oil based paint.

Most professionals do recommend matching the type of paint for good bonding and to match the hardness and flexibility characteristics. Often latex is applied over oil because it is more flexible and can breath if there are minor moisture problems.

Oil paint should not be applied over latex because it dries to a harder, less flexible, less porous, surface and to may peel and crack.

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Posted in exterior, paint

Cleaning a Broom Finish Driveway

November 17th, 2009

Question:

How do you clean the rough areas of a Broom finish driveway? I have tried bleach, however it did not work.

Answer:

Two options: Use a pressure washer and just blast the dirt away, or scrub it with a stiff deck brush and JOMAX. You will find JOMAX at larger paint stores – you mix it with water and laundry bleach for a very effective, exterior cleaner.  It will also remove mildew and mold.

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Posted in cleaning, driveway, exterior, stain removal

Cleaning a Cement Driveway

October 22nd, 2009

Question:

I have a cement drive that is in good shape except for its appearance. There are many stains, oil spots, rust stains and even mildew or green growths. How can I clean this drive to make it look like new?

Answer:

The quick and easy way to clean a drive is with a high-pressure water washer. Rent the best one you can find and get the wide, broom type tip.

Give the drive a thorough blast with the high-pressure washer and this will remove all the dirt and most of the stains. For the remaining rust stains, treat the areas with oxalic acid and water or a rust removal chemical for decks. Soak the area with the acid or cleaner and then rinse. Laundry bleach will lighten and kill the mildew and algae. Blast with the high-pressure water for a final cleaning.

For oil stains that remain after the initial blasting, scrub the areas with MEX or a TSP substitute. Rinse well. Use skin and eye protection and follow label instructions for all the chemicals. You can also try driveway cleaner chemicals.

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Posted in cleaning, driveway, exterior