Archive for the ‘moisture’ category

Black Discoloration on Wood Windows

July 13th, 2010

QUESTION:

We have a black discoloration occurring on the wood part of the windows in our house. Do you know what it is and how to get rid of it? The windows are double-hung and the house was built in 1995. I assumed it was mold and moisture-related because I noticed it first in the bathroom, but now I have found it in small patches on other windows. I have tried many cleaning solutions including TSP and a bleach-water mix, but none seem to work. It occurs both in winter and summer, with windows open or closed.

ANSWER:

If the stains are a dark discoloration that cannot be removed from the surface, you have water damage in the wood. If the TSP removes the stain it may be dirt or mold. Once the surface finish is damaged by water, the water will discolor the wood. If the finish is gone and you have a dark stain, you have water-damaged wood.

The fix is to refinish the wood by sanding, bleaching, and more sanding. Then stain and varnish back to the original finish. It’s not an easy job. Don’t get too worried about the “mold” word. Issues related to mold have been greatly exaggerated by many folks in recent years. Go to the State of Wisconsin or university websites for accurate information about mold in a home – not testers or contractors who make money on mold.

White Stains on Slate After Flooding

April 27th, 2010

We have slate on the floor under and around a portable fireplace. Last winter we had some flooding in that room, and it seems that the water caused white stains to appear on the slate. We tried Lime-Away to no avail. Do you have any answers how we can remove or cover the white stains?

ANSWER:

When white stains appear on stone or masonry surfaces it is usually efflorescence (salt and lime stains). The stain is from salt and lime in the masonry materials (grout, block, or concrete), and the stains come to the surface with water movement.

You could try a stronger cleaner. Scrub the area with a strong solution of MEX and hot water. MEX is a detergent that is also used for cleaning masonry. If the stain remains, test a small area with UGL ETCH. This is an acid cleaner for efflorescence. You need to test an area because it may also discolor the slate. Finally, you could go to a store that deals in tile and slate and find a proprietary cleaner for slate or stains.

Should I Install Sub-Floor Panels When Finishing a Basement?

March 25th, 2010

We are installing a rec-room in our basement. Some of the books I have read recommend installing sub-floor panels over the concrete floor in order to provide extra warmth and help prevent moisture. Is it worth the extra expense? If so, is there a brand you would recommend?

Answer:

When installing carpet or floor covering on a concrete basement floor, always try to add some type of insulation. The concrete slab is in contact with the damp soil. This will make the floor covering cool and subject to condensation, resulting in a musty, mildew smell. A little insulation will make a huge difference.

I suggest ComfortBase from Homosote. It is a 1/2-inch-thick resilient fiber-board that cushions hard concrete and provides a thermal break. The single-ply concrete flooring system is perfect for finishing basements or improving concrete slab floors, while also increasing the floor surface temperature. ComfortBase is easy to apply over concrete floors with adhesive, or floating the panels on the surface.

You can only build a rec-room if the basement is totally dry. It’s a great product but a little hard to find at times. Many home improvement folks don’t know about the it, so you can educate them.

Mildew on Gutters, Siding

March 1st, 2010

I have mildew growing on the gutters and vinyl siding on the side of the house that doesn’t get much sun. I noticed on your website that you suggested the use of Jomax, bleach and water. Is this recommended for gutters?

Answer:

Mildew or mold will always grow on exterior surfaces that don’t see much sun – at least in our Wisconsin climate. I would definitely wash with a Jomax solution, bleach and water. Follow the label instructions. Often you can just spray the solution on the stains with a garden sprayer and then rinse them off. This is an inexpensive cleaning solution that “activates” the laundry bleach.

I’m not sure how the Jomax chemical works, but I know that it works great on vinyl, aluminum siding, and aluminum gutters. It also works on any hard surface with mold or mildew. I found that it does not harm plant materials, but I would wet them down before and rinse them after you use Jomax.

White Stain on Brick Chimney

February 23rd, 2010

We had a new brick chimney installed last June by a reputable local company. In the fall a small area at the base began to show a frosty look. Now in the winter, the entire brick unit (top to bottom) is white. It’s even difficult to tell the color of the bricks. Is it a flue pipe installation error, or something in the brick ? I enjoy your program. Keep us homeowners informed.

Answer:

The white stain is from a moisture problem. The moisture moves through the brick and mortar, and deposits the white, lime, salty deposit. It could be from many possible problems – cap, flashing, flue, original work, etc.

Condensation on Storms

February 3rd, 2010

Question:

I have 12-year-old Kolbe double-hung windows. One set of windows in a 2nd floor bedroom has had exterior condensation on the inside upper-half of the storm window (not the actual double-hung itself). In cold weather this will ice/frost over.

What does this indicate? Is it a problem? Assuming it is an interior leak, how would I figure out where the source is?

Answer:

Condensation on the inside of the storms is caused by warm, moist air leaking from the inside of the home around the interior, primary windows into the space between the primary window and storm. Once the moist air is there, the moisture condenses on the storms – the coldest surface.

This is a common problem and unless it is excessive, quite normal. There is no easy fix. You can try to seal the inner, primary window, reduce the humidity level in your home, or even open the storm a little to vent out the moisture.

You can find more information here:
Fogged Up? Clearing the Air About Window Condensation Problems

Excessive Moisture in the Attic

January 21st, 2010

In September I added blown cellulose to my attic. I then covered the cellulose with plywood in order to have a usable space for storage. I have a walk-up stairway that does not seal very tightly. When I went in the attic to bring Christmas decorations down, I noticed it was damp. I installed a humidistat, and it read 90% humidity. I have a ridge-vent, and I installed sofit vents before blowing in the insulation, so I am not sure where the humidity is coming from, or why it is staying in there.

Dave

Answer:

Your problem is warm air leaking into the (now) cold attic. In the past, air leaks existed but the attic was warm because of the lack of insulation. When the air is warm it holds a lot of moisture, so the “relative” humidity was low and there was no moisture problem.

The solution is to air-seal between the attic and the heated space below. Seal around the chimney and all penetrations, including the access door. If you stop the air leaks you will solve the problem and save lots of energy.

Check out my article:

Insulate Your Attic – But Don’t Stop There!

Moisture Problems Inside the Home

January 20th, 2010

We have a rental house with home humidity above 60%. The dehumidifier in the basement frosts up. Renters tell me that their clothes smell musty from the dampness, and the windows have condensation. The north side of the house is cold. The house was built around 1957. We want to correct the problem, but don’t know what to do. We have had several furnace contractors give us recommendations such as tiling the exterior of the foundation and grading away from the house. What is the best solution?

Pamela

You are describing all the problems with excessive moisture in a home during cold weather. You can find a complete analysis along with steps for solving your problem on the Free PDF Articles page. Here’s a link to the article:

Fogged Up? Clearing the Air About Window Condensation Problems.

You need to look for the sources of the problem – a damp basement, plumbing leak, clothes dryer, back-drafting gas appliance, plants, cooking, a humidifier, etc. Eliminating the source should solve the problem.

You should also consider ventilation. Bath and kitchen fans tend to remove excessive spot moisture. People are also a big source of indoor moisture (people, pets, plants).

Removing Mildew from a Cedar Deck

January 19th, 2010

How do you remove mildew from new cedar deck boards? Some of them were just installed. I can’t believe mildew would appear that fast! I would like to seal the deck, however I can’t do it until the mildew is removed. Thanks.

Mike

Answer:

You can remove mildew from a wooden deck with any deck cleaner. You can also use a product called JOMAX – it’s a great cleaner that you mix with water and laundry bleach. Spray it on, let it soak for 15 min, then hose it off. Scrub if any residue remains.

The mildew was probably on the lumber when it was installed, and was activated by the exterior moisture. Cleaning will help remove the dirt that the mildew loves to grow on. You do need to seal the deck soon, as it is dry in the spring.

Distributing Humid Air via A/C Blower

January 18th, 2010

Question:

I live in a 1200-square-foot condo that has radiant heat and an A/C blower located in the foyer. The A/C fan ducts are v-shape, no longer than 15ft, and go to the master bedroom, a second bedroom, the kitchen, and the great room.

Now that the air is more dry, if I place a humidifier in the foyer will it go up the air intake of my fan blower, thus sending the humid air to other areas in the condo?

The air intake is 36″ x 48″ and requires a filter. Can the humid air pass through the filter? Will it gum up the filters and/or cause other problems?

Jeff

Answer:

Humidity or moisture in the air moves at about 5 mph due to vapor pressure. You can place a humidifier anywhere in your unit – as long as the doors are open, it will move throughout the unit without the fan. If you choose to run the fan (without the A/C I assume) it will move the air quicker.

Tom