Archive for the ‘seasonal’ category

Cracks in Windows

March 16th, 2010

We have lived in our home for 7 years and have had to replace four windows because the inside panes crack and spider (usually during winter). They are double-hung thermopanes with a full screen on the outside. It happens to different windows; three in the back bedrooms, and one above the kitchen sink. Is there any logical explanation for this? What can be done to prevent this from happening to other windows?

Answer:

Thermally insulated glass should not crack unless there is some type of manufacturing or installation defect. The only windows that I have seen crack did so because they were twisted or under pressure in the frame. A small amount of pressure applied to one point can cause a crack.

In this case, I would follow up with the manufacturer and their local representative. Major manufacturers stand behind their products and often offer a 10-year warranty on thermally insulated glass. There is no logical reason for glass to randomly break except the issues listed.

Water on the Garage Floor

February 25th, 2010

I have a 1954 ranch with an attached garage. Water from melting snow (and rain the rest of the year) accumulates in the center of the garage floor. By late winter, I have a small lake in the garage. Short of putting in a dock, is there anything I can do?

Answer:

First, attempt to eliminate any water that may be caused by poor surface drainage. The soil outside the garage should be at least 6 inches below the foundation of the garage. The soil should direct surface water away from the slab and footing. Make sure the gutters and downspouts are directing water away.

If the real problem is snow and ice from the car, the best bet is to sweep and shovel it whenever it accumulates, and before it melts. Technically, the garage floor slab should have a pretty good pitch or slope to the garage door, and water should just flow out the door.

If you have a low spot that collects water, consider drilling a 1/2-inch hole through the slab at the low spot. You will need a hammer drill and a special masonry bit. Plan on a little bit of work, noise and dust. The hole will drain away most water into the gravel under the floor slab. Since the hole is small, you will need to clear it periodically.

Patio Door Sticks in Winter

January 7th, 2010

Question:

My patio door is harder to close when it gets cold. I think it needs to be lubricated on the bottom. What kind of lubricant should i use?

Fran

Answer:

A patio sliding door often sticks in the winter because of changes in temperature and humidity that causes wood to move or expand. The frame, door, and home structural framing move. This movement also makes any lack of lubrication or dirt compound the problem.

You should clean the lower track with a vacuum, then wipe it down with a damp cloth. Follow the dampened-cloth with a silicon lubricant on the raised lip of the track. The silicone will lubricate the metal and limit dirt accumulation.

To properly lubricate the rollers, you will need to remove the door. You need to remove the top, inner stop that is normally screwed in place. Tip the top of the door in, then inspect, clean, and lube the top and bottom rollers. This is a two-person job, so have a helper.

You should also observe the operation of the door in the opening. If it’s rubbing on the track, then raise the door with the roller adjustment. If it’s rubbing on the top, lower the door. You might be able to solve your problem with a simple adjustment.

Tom