Archive for the ‘paint’ category

Soot and Sawdust Removal

June 1st, 2010

QUESTION

I think I have soot stain problems in my house after reading about them on your website. I have all-electric house heating, made up of baseboards and storage units. My wife loves her candles as much as I love my woodworking, but both cause dust and soot. Can you suggest a cleaning solution for the ceilings and walls? Also, can you recommend any air filtration solutions to help the problem? Thank you.

ANSWER

The best solution for the soot stains is to stop burning all candles. Well, OK – I do ‘let’ my wife burn a few high quality candles, and she keeps the wicks trimmed to about 1/4″ length. A high quality candle and a short wick will reduce the soot produced. We don’t ever use the nice, smelly candles in a glass jug. They are great soot producers because there is a lack of oxygen in the jug and the scent comes from something released into the air.

Removing the soot is a problem because it is such a fine particle and it tends to stick to surfaces with a magnetic charge. You can try a dry sponge – it’s a large, soft, rubbery sponge that absorbs soot. They are used for fire restoration work and you can find them in larger paint departments. After wiping with a dry sponge, clean the area with a strong detergent using lots of rags and water/detergent changes.

Soot is very hard to remove. When re-painting, prime the surface with BIN to cover the soot. BIN is available in most paint stores and is also used in fire restoration.

There is no filter that will remove soot. For the woodworking dust, I suggest you try to control it at the source. Use a vacuum system with a great filter and seal the woodworking shop from the rest of the house. Seal any heating ductwork in the shop, particularly the return ducts that may suck in the dust from the air. On a forced air furnace, use the best quality paper filter you can find to remove the sawdust.

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Posted in cleaning, paint, soot, stain removal

Rules For Stripping Trim and Wood Doors

March 20th, 2010

What is the general rule for stripping wood trim and wood doors? When is it best to use a heat gun or chemical stripper?

Answer:

Stripping? Just don’t do it. Seriously, it is a lot of work to strip and refinish wood. I think you need to evaluate the existing wood and doors for their value. Inexpensive pine molding should just be replaced, along with Luan veneer doors. Older, intricate moldings and doors should be saved. Oak and other hardwoods will be much easier to strip and refinish.

Whenever you strip paint from a surface you need to be aware of possible lead content in paint, so don’t strip lead paint without the proper precautions.

The process is messy and tough to do. Heat guns and scrapers work well in some cases, along with chemical strippers. Success depends on the type of paint, number of layers, physical access, shape, and contours. I would try both methods. There are also many types of paint strippers. For a large project, you should test several types and brands. Any doors or parts that can be removed should be stripped outside on saw horses. You need lots of ventilation to play it safe. Good luck!

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Posted in paint, ventilation, wood finishing

How to Tell the Difference Between Latex and Oil-Based Paint

November 30th, 2009

Question:

This summer I will be painting the old home I just bought. I would like to match the type of exterior paint. How do I tell if the paint is oil based or latex?

Answer:

Wet a rag with denatured alcohol and rub the paint surface. If paint comes off in the rag or the paints gets tacky, it is latex paint. If the surface remains untouched, it is oil based paint.

Most professionals do recommend matching the type of paint for good bonding and to match the hardness and flexibility characteristics. Often latex is applied over oil because it is more flexible and can breath if there are minor moisture problems.

Oil paint should not be applied over latex because it dries to a harder, less flexible, less porous, surface and to may peel and crack.

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Posted in exterior, paint

Tips for Painting Ceilings

November 23rd, 2009

Question:

I have had bad experiences painting ceilings. I use good quality, semi-gloss paint and a roller. I always end up with lap marks and shiny spots. Any suggestions?

Answer:

I suggest you try using flat paint specifically designed for ceilings. Semi-gloss tends to show lap marks and any uneven application. Flat paint is very forgiving and the better quality flat paints cover well and still can be cleaned.

You also need to practice your application techniques. With a roller evenly filled with paint, you should apply the paint in a “W” or “M” pattern over a 3 by 3 foot area. This spreads the initial, thick paint over a wider area. Then, work your roller up and down or left and right to even the coat of paint over the whole area.

Always try to paint from a wet edge so you new application blends in with the paint on the wall. When you lap new paint over dry paint, you run the risk of a lap mark. Finally, use lots of light so you can easily see how the paint is covering.

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Posted in interior, paint

Peeling Paint and Mildew in the Bathroom

November 18th, 2009

Question:

I have a problem with peeling paint and mildew on the paint in the bathroom. We have a big family and use the exhaust fan, but we still have a problem. What can we do with the paint?

Answer:

You should try to run the exhaust fan as much as possible. Try to operate it until the shower walls are dry. Consider adding a timer switch so the fan can be set to run for an hour after the bathroom is used.

I have had great luck with a bathroom paint that is guaranteed not to mildew or peel. Sound too good to be true? Well, over the past 5 years in my home, I have found it does not mildew and does not peel.

Try Zinsser brand, Perma-White, Mildew-Proof, Bathroom Paint. You will find it in most paint departments and paint stores. It is self-priming, water based, low odor, and can be tinted.

To use the Perma-White, you do need to kill any mildew with laundry bleach. Water stains or dark stains should be primed with BIN. The surface must be clean and free of loose paint, dirt, grease, and soap film. Apply two coats. The first coat primes and seals the surface. The second coat provides more mildew resistance and scrub-resistance.

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Posted in bathroom, paint, ventilation

Use painter’s caulk in wood trim joints that have cracks and openings

October 13th, 2009

Question:

I am completing some interior painting projects and have had problems in the past with painting the wood molding between the wall and the ceiling. When there is a small gap between the wood and the ceiling it shows up as a large black line or gap. I have tried to spackle these gaps in the past with no success. What will work?

Answer:

I like to use painter’s caulk in wood trim joints that have cracks and openings. Painters caulk is easy to use – usually a water based product. Don’t use silicone caulk because it may not hold paint.

To fill the joints, simply apply a small bead of caulk. I like to smooth the caulk with my finger dipped in soapy water. You can create a smooth joint that is easy to paint and will move as the wood expands and contracts to eliminate future cracks.

I also use caulk for small cracks in plaster and drywall and to caulk corner joints that have opened up. On a textured wall I will poke, rub, dab, slide, and otherwise manipulate the caulk surface to match the texture.

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Posted in paint, wood